As Myanmar’s civil war continues to disrupt daily life across the country, thousands of people have gathered at the annual Taungbyone Spirit Festival, turning to traditional beliefs for protection, hope and relief.
The festival, held near Mandalay during the monsoon season, brings together nat kadaws—spirit mediums who devotees believe can communicate with Myanmar’s powerful nats, or supernatural beings. Many of the mediums are transgender women and members of marginalized LGBTQ+ communities, making the event an important cultural space for a community that faces discrimination and criminalization.
Dressed in elaborate costumes and heavy jewelry, the mediums perform ritual dances and enter trances as crowds offer flowers, money, alcohol, and other gifts to the spirits. Devotees believe the nats can influence everything from personal fortunes to wider problems affecting society.
According to The Japan Times, the festival has faced growing disruption from Myanmar’s conflict in recent years, with celebrations significantly scaled back in 2024 and 2025. This year, however, fighting has moved farther from the Mandalay area, allowing the festival to regain some of its traditional vibrancy.
The conflict, which erupted after the military seized power in 2021, has caused widespread displacement and destruction. More than 100,000 people are estimated to have been killed in conflict-related violence since the coup, according to the Armed Conflict Location & Event Data project (ACLED).
For many visitors, the festival provides more than a religious experience. It has become a place to seek emotional relief after years of war, displacement and uncertainty.
The Taungbyone festival traditionally honors two brother spirits who, according to legend, were executed by a king after failing to provide bricks for a pagoda. Other revered spirits include warrior and guardian nats, as well as Min Kyawzwa, who is associated with drinking and gambling.
Spirit medium Win Hlaing, 65, said devotees come to him seeking help through the supernatural world.
“Nats are like medicines; they each have their own power,” he said.
For festival-goers living through Myanmar’s prolonged crisis, the annual gathering offers a rare moment of celebration and a chance to seek hope amid continuing uncertainty.
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